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Dixsons Lawnmower Rebuild

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I thought you might be interested in this rebuild. An unusual drive system for sure, economical and efficient. A little fussy to get adjusted properly, but that is one of the things we like about our Dixons, hours of endless tinkering. This is my first rebuild, but I have owned Dixons since the late “70’s” a total of 5 maybe six. This one was bought at a garage sale about 4 years ago, for $200.00. Number 5 is in the shed having turned into a parts machine, a 1992 ZTR428 (B&S engine as opposed to the Kohler on the 429). It was also bought at a garage sale. The only new Dixon I ever had was the very first one that my Mom bought back in the late 70’s. Anyway’s…..

So I got it tore down and up onto the bench, you can’t really rebuild on the mower and removing the trans axle as a unit is very easy.

It is tempting to try and get the disk cups and cone cradle out of the trans axle, but you can’t. Just not enough room to get things out and no master link on the chain. It is easy to remove the drive cradle on either side, once again easy to do only six bolts. I left the right drive cradle on to hold the trans axle frame together.

The transmission has a few springs and they break over time, sometimes you notice sometimes you don’t, usually you just chalk it up to wear when your machine stops running silky smooth.

There are five sand cast cradles that make up the trans axle. The two outside cradles are for the final drive they connect to the wheels via chain, then the disk cup, and in the center the drive cones, this is driven by the engine via belt.

After checking all the bearings and other components I replaced the drive cones and one bearing. Everything came a part easier than expected. The trans axle assembly is protected by the seat and cowl and I try to keep the various pieces/parts lubricated. I did have a shop manual, but it could be done without it. The hard part is keeping tract of the various springs.

The first piece to go back together was the right disk cup assemble. There are two small springs (and a rubber bumper at the top spring) and the neutral positioning assembly (a bolt with springs and nuts). This can get kind of tricky to get everything in place, without the little springs bouncing around the shop, but it is doable.

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